Ken Borland

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The open savanna grassland between Crocodile Bridge and Lower Sabie not only provides plenty of game on the sweetveld, pan-dotted basaltic plains, but many of the typical “bushveld” birds of Kruger National Park.

Arriving at Crocodile Bridge at mid-morning in March almost guarantees you a hot welcome and so it was that, upon my arrival from Mlawula in Swaziland, I entered one of the southernmost gates of Kruger in sweltering 35° heat.

Crocodile Bridge is acknowledged as one of the hottest, most humid places in South Africa and arriving towards mid-day meant most birds were keeping quiet trying to conserve energy.

But just two kilometres from the entrance gate there are two significant spots that provide reward.

The first is the Gezantfombi Dam (more on that later) and the second is the turnoff for the Nhlowa Road (S28), one of the best birding drives in Kruger Park, particularly in late summer when the relatively water-impervious basalt allows numerous pans to survive around the stunted Knob-thorn and Marula trees.

Turning east on to the Nhlowa Road, towards the Lebombo Mountains, both Lilacbreasted and European Rollers were quickly seen, followed by another pleasing migrant in the Lesser Grey Shrike.

Most of the typical Bushveld birds were all there, with the long grass and numerous perches proving ideal habitat for Shrikes, which included Redbacked and Longtailed as well as the Lesser Grey.

Sabota Lark, Yellowbilled and Grey Hornbill and Arrowmarked Babbler were all there too.

After travelling 17 of the 24km towards Lower Sabie, you reach the Ntandanyathi Hide, a spacious, solid wooden structure that overlooks a section of the Nhlowa River.

Three Bushveld beauties were waiting there for me in Woodland Kingfisher, Greenbacked Heron and Crested Barbet.

In temperatures around 35°, birding around water is one of the better options and Gezantfombi Dam had earlier produced European Bee-Eater, Redbilled Buffalo Weaver, Common Scimitarbill and Cardinal Woodpecker, while crossing into Kruger over the Crocodile River bridge had thrown up a Redfaced Cisticola, locally common and always good to see, as well as Southern Red Bishop and Brownhooded Kingfisher.

The thorn trees around the parking lot where you complete the formalities of getting into Kruger had some friendly Blue Waxbill, tame Southern Greyheaded Sparrows and, surprisingly, a Steelblue Widowfinch, which is an uncommon resident in the park.

Between the gate and Gezantfombi Dam, one gets a taste of the thick thorn thicket known as Gomondwane Bush that characterises the tar road between Crocodile Bridge and Lower Sabie, and this is prime habitat for the Whitecrowned Shrike, another localised bird, which was sharing a tree with the ubiquitous Rattling Cisticola.

A pod of Hippopotamus was keeping cool in Gezantfombi Dam, while Elephant, Plains Zebra, Greater Kudu, Giraffe, Waterbuck and Slender Mongoose were all spotted along the open grassland savanna of the S28.

Nearing the tar road, and with the temperature now up to 37°, Marabou Stork were soaring on the thermals and there was also a Brown Snake Eagle flying about. Fantailed Cisticola were chip-chip-chipping at lower levels above the grassland.

All that hot air had to lead to something and, sure enough, a huge storm hit while I was setting up camp at Lower Sabie. Trying to hammer your tent pegs into the concrete-like hard ground of the badly redesigned campsite while a deluge is falling from the heavens is not the ideal way to end your first day of birding in Kruger Park, but it could not detract from the thrill of being back in the bushveld.

Sightings list

Southern Red Bishop

Redfaced Cisticola

Brownhooded Kingfisher

Blue Waxbill

Southern Greyheaded Sparrow

Steelblue Widowfinch

Impala

Blue Wildebeest

Whitebacked Vulture

European Swallow

Whitecrowned Shrike

Rattling Cisticola

Burchell’s Starling

Cape Turtle Dove

European Bee-Eater

Forktailed Drongo

Hippopotamus

Blacksmith Plover

Egyptian Goose

Redbilled Buffalo Weaver

Common Scimitarbill

Cardinal Woodpecker

Lilacbreasted Roller

European Roller

Redbilled Quelea

Elephant

Lesser Grey Shrike

Sabota Lark

Redbacked Shrike

Yellowbilled Hornbill

Longtailed Shrike

Arrowmarked Babbler

Plains Zebra

Greater Kudu

Giraffe

Grey Hornbill

Waterbuck

Grassveld Pipit

Woodland Kingfisher

Greenbacked Heron

Crested Barbet

Spotted Flycatcher

Glossy Starling

Marabou Stork

Slender Mongoose

Brown Snake Eagle

Fantailed Cisticola

Grey Lourie

Laughing Dove

The Zaagkuildrift to Kgomo-Kgomo road has such an evocative name – in fact, when I told one of my friends where I had been, he said I had made up the names!

But it was no fantasy, that partly cloudy, hot and humid day of January 26, with the route along the Pienaars River having a wonderfully tropical feel and the road still muddy and interrupted with deep puddles after recent heavy rain.

Having to negotiate the morning rush hour traffic of both Johannesburg and Pretoria meant I only started birding at 8.55am.

I began my adventure by mistakenly heading towards the railway station, but the detour did throw up Blackthroated Canary, Blackchested Prinia, Diederick Cuckoo, one of my favourite summer birds in the Woodland Kingfisher, and the first Steelblue Widowfinch I have seen in a long time. I also got Rattling Cisticola out of the way early on!

I had barely travelled two kilometres down the right road when my petrol light started showing about a hundred kilometres early, so it was back to Pienaarsrivier town for a refill and peace of mind.

On the third attempt I made it past the MCPA Dam and its hippo warnings and into the riverine bush. Highlights were House Martin, a Steppe Buzzard which insisted on returning to the telephone pole two ahead of the car before flying off again, the beautiful Melba Finch, Whitebrowed Sparrow-Weaver, good sighting of a Gabar Goshawk and Amur Falcon, Burchell’s and Wattled Starlings.

Apart from the excellent birding, the frustrated rally driver in me was having great fun taking on the mud and pools of water! But it seemed the fun would have to end when, perhaps a third of the way along the 26km route, I came to a gully where the road is closest to the Pienaars River.

A lengthy patch of mushy mud lay in front of a deep, wide pool of water and I decided I would not be able to generate enough speed through the mud to be sure of getting through the pond on the other side of it. So it was with a heavy heart that I turned back, before deciding to try and find a detour that would take me to the other side of the obstruction.

I headed back to the R101 and then turned off towards Syferkraal, from where I managed to find a road south to Walman and Tlovnane – the D1660 – that would hopefully join up again with the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road.

As much as I was revelling in God’s beautiful creation, it was also a reminder of a great spiritual truth: Often we are so set on the path that we want to go, and we get most upset if that way is blocked, but God has something much better in store. So it proved as the road from Syferkraal back to the Pienaars River produced some exceptional birding, including a LIFER!

The detour had already paid dividends as, on my way back past the MCPA Dam, I had spotted just my second ever Bluecheeked Bee-Eater.

Just outside of Syferkraal, I had stopped on the side of the road as there was plenty of activity in the Acacia woodland – Longtailed Paradise Whydah was showing off beautifully and there was also Marico Flycatcher and Chestnutvented Tit Babbler. But I had caught a glimpse of something else Whydah-like …

My first ever Shaft-tailed Whydah! A male in all his finery, like our very own bird of paradise, perching on the telephone line and showing off his wonderful tail.

My happiness only increased when I managed to get back on to the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road and just past Wolfhuiskraal Farm, I allowed my enthusiasm to get the better of me …

A shallow looking puddle lay across the road and I roared through it … unfortunately it was deeper than I expected and I was going a bit too fast, so as I exited the pond, the car cut out. I had managed to get water in the engine!

After 15 minutes of waiting, the car refusing to re-start, a gentleman in his bakkie arrived. I was practically out of the water and there was enough room on the right of me for him to get past, and I was hoping he could then use my tow-rope, give me a pull (not a tug) and I’d get started again.

Unfortunately he was not the adventurous sort and was afraid that he would get stuck in the mud! So he waited behind me with his lady friend …

Eventually, about half-an-hour later, two gents in a Landrover came along and, after some initial problems attaching the tow rope, I was back on the go again.

Unfortunately, it was shortlived because about two kilometres further down the road, there was another muddy stretch and deep puddle and I decided not to chance my arm because I’d already had enough excitement for one day!

So homewards I trekked, again via Syferkraal, and I managed to pick up a lovely group of Southern Pied Babbler (black & white can be so beautiful!), Kalahari Robin, Bluebilled & Redbilled Firefinch and, to end on a high note, a stunning Crimsonbreasted Shrike!

Even though my trip was disrupted, I had seen enough to know the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road is a place of mystical wonder. Next time I think I’ll start on the Kgomo-Kgomo side ….

Sightings list

Blackthroated Canary

Blackchested Prinia

Laughing Dove

Diederick Cuckoo

Woodland Kingfisher

Rattling Cisticola

Steelblue Widowfinch

Redbacked Shrike

European Swallow

House Martin

Whitethroated Swallow

Rufousnaped Lark

Redwinged Starling

Whitewinged Widow

Cape Turtle Dove

Cinnamonbreasted Rock Bunting

Steppe Buzzard

Helmeted Guineafowl

Spurwinged Goose

Blue Waxbill

Melba Finch

Southern Greyheaded Sparrow

Whitebrowed Sparrow-Weaver

Yellowfronted Canary

Gabar Goshawk

Amur Falcon

Forktailed Drongo

Longtailed Shrike

Spottedbacked Weaver

Glossy Starling

Redfaced Mousebird

Burchell’s Starling

Wattled Starling

African Jacana

Bluecheeked Bee-Eater

Cattle Egret

Crested Francolin

Little Swift

Crowned Plover

Longtailed Paradise Whydah

Shaft-Tailed Whydah

Marico Flycatcher

Chestnutvented Tit Babbler

Fantailed Cisticola

Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill

Spotted Flycatcher

European Bee-Eater

Southern Pied Babbler

Kalahari Robin

Bluebilled Firefinch

Natal Francolin

Redbilled Firefinch

Redbilled Woodhoopoe

Crimsonbreasted Shrike