Amatikulu Nature Reserve
Looking out over the Amatikulu Estuary, its confluence with the Nyoni and beyond that the Indian Ocean, one was struck by an enormous sense of tranquility as we enjoyed the scenery from the tented camp on the hill.
Twelve hours later, that tranquility had been replaced by what felt like a raging hurricane as we tried to pack up camp after our two nights at Amatikulu Nature Reserve. Situated so close to the coast, we were bombarded by squalls that raced up from the south, bringing howling wind and heavy rain.
While the weather had been against us in terms of birding, we still enjoyed a fabulous stay and were most impressed by Amatikulu.
My first sighting arriving after the long drive from Johannesburg to the reserve, situated about 100km north of Durban and just above the mouth of the Tugela River, was of a Vervet Monkey. Fortunately, Amatikulu is one of the few places that has well-behaved monkeys and they did not trouble our camp at all!
A Wild Plum was the centrepiece of the campsite and in the morning we were greeted by a flock of Blackbellied Starlings foraging in it.
Our first morning consisted of doing the lengthy forest trail over the next hill and down to the estuary. We quickly picked up a Bluegrey Flycatcher and soon we were admiring the idyllic dune forest and that wet smell that came from the rather swampy conditions after all the recent rain. A stream also runs through the forest and we were impressed by a large stand of trees with their roots in the stream, which reminded me of banyan trees in India. (I wish I knew trees better, these had long, straight trunks and big glossy leaves if anyone can help with identification!)
Another notable forest tree was Tabernaemontana ventricosa, the Forest Toad Tree, with its beautiful five-star, helix-shaped, creamy white flowers.
An Eastern Olive Sunbird was chip-chipping away in the higher foliage but we managed to track him down, while Thickbilled Weavers were down on the forest floor even though the breeding season was surely underway.
Down we went through the beautiful forest until we came out on the river bank, from where we walked a few hundred metres to where the Amatikulu reached the Nyoni. Sitting down for a bite to eat, we were joined on a little sandbank by a delightful little Sanderling, as well as Whitefronted Plover and Common Sandpiper.
Towards the other end of the estuary, peeking above a sandbank, we spotted the distinctive heads and bills of a few Whimbrel. As pleased as we were to see them, we decided against wading across to their side because the river looked fairly deep and there are crocodiles about!
This did not deter a couple of locals from their handfishing in the estuary, which just adds to the sense of stepping back into a time when the Natal coast was not just holiday resorts.
Heading back to the picnic site, we picked up White-Eared Barbet and then Squaretailed Drongo, Blackbacked Puffback and Forest Weaver were waiting for us back at camp.
The afternoon, interspersed with showers, was spent doing the 4×4 trail through the hilly coastal grassland with patches of forest and Lala Palms.
It was prime habitat for Croaking Cisticola and he was our first tick on the afternoon drive, quickly followed by Yellowthroated Longclaw. A Longcrested Eagle came zooming over and Yellow Weavers were busy in one of the trees along the route.
Spectacled Weaver was also around and, although the swampy area around the Nyoni Pan looked very promising, it didn’t provide anything unusual.
Redbilled Oxpeckers were on a female group of Greater Kudu and we finally tracked down Natal Robin just before sunset.
In between squalls on the final morning, a visit to the ablutions turned up a Pygmy Kingfisher sitting briefly on a branch right by the door.
It was a great way to end a trip which pretty much blew us away in both senses of the phrase!
Sightings list
Vervet Monkey
Plains Zebra
Blackbellied Starling
Bluegrey Flycatcher
Whitefronted Bee-Eater
Blackeyed Bulbul
Redshouldered Widow
Redcollared Widow
Eastern Olive Sunbird
Sombre Bulbul
Thickbilled Weaver
Collared Sunbird
Pied Kingfisher
Egyptian Goose
Reed Cormorant
Great White Egret
Whitebreasted Cormorant
Common Sandpiper
Whitefronted Plover
Sanderling
Whimbrel
Yellowbilled Duck
European Swallow
White-Eared Barbet
African Pied Wagtail
Squaretailed Drongo
Blackbacked Puffback
Forest Weaver
Croaking Cisticola
Yellowthroated Longclaw
Giraffe
Longcrested Eagle
Yellow Weaver
Little Bee-Eater
Spectacled Weaver
Common Moorhen
Grey Heron
African Jacana
Scarletchested Sunbird
Greater Kudu
Redbilled Oxpecker
Redeyed Dove
Natal Robin
Red Duiker
Pygmy Kingfisher
Hi there
I really enjoyed reading about your camping experience at aMatikhulu. We live in Mtunzini, about 30kms from the site. We visited for the day, took a walk along the top of the embankment and had a delightful stroll along through the forest. It was almost like the Transkei Wild Coast,which I miss with all my heart. We met a group of local fishermen who had caught a fish.
I could not resist a swim in the river, I slid down the embankment and dived in. I didn’t know there were crocs there!!
Ha ha, thanks Patricia for your lovely memory. I know Mtunzini – I was at school with the Garlands – and I remember coming to look for Palmnut Vultures there. A lovely seaside town. I grew up on the Natal South Coast so living in Johannesburg now I really miss the sea, forest and things being green throughout the year!
I also know the Transkei Wild Coast quite well and yes, there are definite similarities.
Bravo for having a swim! Apparently the crocodiles are further upstream but you never know, I guess.
Ken