Ken Borland

Mapungubwe National Park is renowned for its hostile rocky terrain and hardy baobabs, but at 6.25pm on January 25, the sun is setting and casting its rays over a tropical wetland, reflecting off the water and illuminating the drowned Fever Trees in a magical light.

Through this idyllic setting, two small waterfowl come cruising towards the Maloutswa Pan Hide, easing their way through the vegetation on the water’s surface.

Soon the distinctive small white faces, chestnut breasts and dark green upperparts of the Pygmy Goose became clear – a Lifer and just as I had imagined seeing the most beautiful and exotic of our ducks, and a rather scarce tropical visitor at that.

The illustrations of them in the bird guides have always enthralled me with their beautiful colours, and in real life the Pygmy Goose is even cuter with their bright yellow beaks, drifting serenely through the water lilies.

Maloutswa Pan is a superb spot for birding and typical birds seen are Giant and Pied kingfishers, Threebanded Plover, African Pied Wagtail, Blackwinged Stilt, Diederik Cuckoo, Swainson’s Francolin, Whitefaced Duck, Redbilled Buffalo Weaver, Greenbacked Heron, Egyptian Goose, Wood Sandpiper, African Jacana, Sacred Ibis and Blacksmith Plover.

Numerous other species come and go and on this occasion, a Lanner Falcon was flying along the pan and Abdim’s Stork also flew past, while African Mourning Dove were in one of the dead trees. A male was approaching a female all bowing and cooing and currowling … only for the female to simply fly off! Ah, the perils of courtship.

A large herd of Elephant were making their daily late-afternoon trek from Maloutswa towards the Limpopo River, while a Greybacked Camaroptera was chirping away in an Umbrella Thorn at the hide. The Hadeda Ibis which had loudly announced my arrival had begun to settle down.

Mapungubwe NP is divided into eastern and western sections and Maloutswa is in the western portion, on the Limpopo River floodplain. There is another interesting body of water in the eastern section, a little dam close to the park’s main entrance, and there, along with a Common Sandpiper, was a Common Moorhen.

At first I thought it was a family of Common Moorhen because there were smaller ones with it … Closer inspection, however, revealed a mostly yellow bill, rather than red, and I had a second Lifer, the Lesser Moorhen! Again, it was a fantastic sighting, with the Common Moorhen alongside for comparison.

The brilliant waterbirding in this otherwise dry, hostile environment doesn’t stop there. Between the western and eastern portions of the park lie the Den Staat Wetlands, situated on a private farm but apparently now open to people staying in the park.

The large retention dams with varying levels of water are packed with birds and my late afternoon visit provided African Spoonbill, Ruff, Marsh Sandpiper, African Darter and Fulvous Duck on the water, while the rank vegetation around the dams had Yellowcrowned Bishop just chizzling away, Bluecheeked Bee-Eater, a prowling Burchell’s Coucal, Blackshouldered Kite and Steppe Buzzard.

My visit to Mapungubwe coincided with the place going to seed. But in a good way as the grass had grown to over a metre high in some places, higher than the 4×4’s bonnet and laden with seed.

It soon became apparent that there were quails in there but, as they would fly out for one or two seconds and then disappear into the grass again, identifying them was a near-impossible task. Even in short grass, I would mark the spot where one landed, walk there and find nothing! My best guess, based on the white spots on dark brown I saw when I had a brief glance, was Harlequin Quail.

The frustration of the quails notwithstanding, driving through the Acacia woodland with its lush understorey was extremely rewarding. Wattled Starling were busy and conspicuous, as a Kori Bustard marched sternly through the veld. Less obvious were the Lesser Masked Weaver unobtrusively working its way through the canopy of trees and a Eurasian Golden Oriole silently moving through the same area.

A Booted Eagle came flying out of the woodland, with its distinctive chevron on a dark rump, while Redbilled Helmetshrike, European Cuckoo, Melba Finch, Southern Pied Babbler and Purple Roller were also delightful sightings. A Rattling Cisticola was high up on top of one of the Acacias.

The more open country also held some large flocks of Redbilled Quelea, such a common bird but the breeding males are still so beautiful with their bright pink facial wash and black mask. White Stork and Tawny Eagle were soaring overhead and Whitecrowned Shrike, Common Scimitarbill, Namaqua Dove and Longtailed Starling were also present.

As the sun was setting, a pair of African Hawk Eagle were sitting on a fence (used to keep Elephant out of a regenerating area of woodland), with one descending into the grass next to a big herd of Impala. Ground Hornbill were nearby too.

The Mapungubwe campsite is in the western section and one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of staying in. Mazhou is situated in the dense riverine forest of the Limpopo floodplain and birding is excellent, while various animals also pass through at close quarters.

A pair of Woodland Kingfisher were nesting in a tree at my particular site, with a pair of Crested Barbet in the same tree, in a hole higher up. But they were flying to and from an adjacent tree, so perhaps they had two nests in close proximity, or maybe their trips to the other tree were to divert attention away from their nest?

The delightful White Helmetshrike were visitors to my campsite, one of them struggling to swallow a large caterpillar, while a female Whitebellied Sunbird easily dispatched a spider it caught high in the canopy. A Bearded Woodpecker was also chattering away and easily seen from my chair as was a European Marsh Warbler on my final morning.

When night had just fallen, a Barred Owl flew into a tree above my ‘lounge’; then I heard a ‘chit chit chit’ and the adorable Lesser Bushbaby passed through, leaping acrobatically from tree-to-tree.

From camp it is a short drive to the Limpopo River banks and its huge riverine trees, with Grey Hornbill, Yellowbellied Bulbul and Speckled Mousebird all enjoying the fruiting figs. A Yellowbilled Stork and Bateleur were soaring overhead, while a Nile Monitor pretended to be a log on the side of the road.

Soon the distinctive calls of the African Fish Eagle were heard from overhead, the archetypal riverine raptor also soaring as the temperature reached 36°, the sort of heat that encouraged a Steenbok to go lie under a bush.

For real heat, however, exploring the eastern section, hot, dry and rugged Baobab country with jagged sandstone buttresses, will get you sweating.

Klipspringer, standing motionless like statues, adorn the weathered rocks, while it was so hot (39°) that a Giraffe was lying down under a Baobab chewing on his lunch with his buddy the Blue Wildebeest. It was a very peaceful scene until a biting fly seemingly jabbed the Wildebeest, leading to a typically comical reaction as the Gnu went tearing off in the direction of Zimbabwe.

The Giraffe and the Wildebeest were a slightly odd couple, but there were more regular pairs around like the Black Eagles soaring over a koppie and, at a pan deep in the Mopane in the Kanniedood area, Redheaded Finch amongst a host of queleas. Redbilled Teal were on the water and the surrounding area also held Longtailed Paradise Whydah, Cut-Throat Finch, European Roller and Pale Chanting Goshawk.

Other interesting birds on the “dry” side of Mapungubwe are Monotonous, Sabota and Flappet Larks and Black Kite.

The eastern portion of Mapungubwe also has frontage on to the Limpopo River, with a brilliant treetop boardwalk providing Meyer’s Parrot, given away by its screeching calls before it flew into a tree cavity, meaning it was probably nesting given the time of day. A Marabou Stork was also circling overhead, while beautiful bushveld birds such as the Broadbilled Roller, Brubru, Plumcoloured Starling and Goliath Heron are also present.

Other birds seen in the rich gallery forest were Jacobin Cuckoo, Tropical Boubou and Steelblue Widowfinch.

Even the farm roads around Mapungubwe are great for birding with Chestnutbacked Sparrowlark, Whitebrowed Sparrow Weaver, Amur Falcon and African Cuckoo on the dirt road through the agricultural lands and Pearlbreasted Swallow in amongst the European Swallows and Carmine Bee-Eaters all over the telephone wires. Blackchested Snake Eagle also often uses these perches.

 

Sightings list

Laughing Dove

Whitecrowned Shrike

Natal Francolin

Longtailed Starling

Woodland Kingfisher

Redbilled Hornbill

Vervet Monkey

Crested Barbet

Redeyed Dove

Tree Squirrel

Whitebacked Vulture

Spotted Flycatcher

Forktailed Drongo

Tawny Eagle

Redbilled Quelea

Whitefronted Bee-Eater

Blue Waxbill

Redbacked Shrike

Southern Greyheaded Sparrow

Common Scimitarbill

Namaqua Dove

Blue Wildebeest

Impala

Waterbuck

Plains Zebra

Redbilled Oxpecker

Warthog

Lilacbreasted Roller

Emeraldspotted Wood Dove

White Helmetshrike

Bushbuck

Whitebellied Sunbird

Cape Turtle Dove

Bearded Woodpecker

European Swallow

Carmine Bee-Eater

Boulenger’s Garter Snake

Chacma Baboon

Southern Masked Weaver

Redbilled Helmetshrike

Crowned Plover

Elephant

Cattle Egret

Rattling Cisticola

Greybacked Camaroptera

Hadeda Ibis

Whitefaced Duck

African Mourning Dove

Redbilled Buffalo Weaver

Greenbacked Heron

Egyptian Goose

Wood Sandpiper

African Jacana

Nile Crocodile

Abdim’s Stork

Sacred Ibis

Blacksmith Plover

African Hawk Eagle

Ground Hornbill

Barred Owl

Jameson’s Firefinch

Whitebrowed Scrub Robin

Jacobin Cuckoo

Grey Hornbill

Yellowbellied Bulbul

Speckled Mousebird

Tropical Boubou

Blackeyed Bulbul

Cardinal Woodpecker

Steelblue Widowfinch

Blackbacked Puffback

Whitewinged Widow

Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill

Yellowbilled Stork

Nile Monitor

Bateleur

Grey Heron

Redbilled Woodhoopoe

Dabchick

Hamerkop

African Fish Eagle

Wattled Starling

Steenbok

Kori Bustard

Slender Mongoose

Longbilled Crombec

Lesser Masked Weaver

Eurasian Golden Oriole

Banded Mongoose

Harlequin Quail

White Stork

Booted Eagle

European Cuckoo

Melba Finch

Purple Roller

Fantailed Cisticola

Lanner Falcon

Giant Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Threebanded Plover

African Pied Wagtail

Blackwinged Stilt

Diederik Cuckoo

Pygmy Goose

Swainson’s Francolin

Lesser Bushbaby

Whitebrowed Sparrow Weaver

Chestnutbacked Sparrowlark

Amur Falcon

Pearlbreasted Swallow

African Cuckoo

Yellowthroated Sparrow

Monotonous Lark

Sabota Lark

Marsh Terrapin

Klipspringer

Cinnamonbreasted Rock Bunting

Rock Dassie

Tawnyflanked Prinia

Broadbilled Roller

Meyer’s Parrot

Southern Black Flycatcher

Brubru

Plumcoloured Starling

Wiretailed Swallow

Goliath Heron

Marabou Stork

Redwinged Starling

Flappet Lark

Giraffe

Black Eagle

Black Kite

Gemsbok

Redheaded Finch

Redbilled Teal

Longtailed Paradise Whydah

Cut-Throat Finch

European Roller

Goldenbreasted Bunting

Pale Chanting Goshawk

Helmeted Guineafowl

Common Moorhen

Lesser Moorhen

Common Sandpiper

Grey Lourie

Blackchested Snake Eagle

African Spoonbill

Ruff

Marsh Sandpiper

African Darter

Fulvous Duck

Yellowcrowned Bishop

Bluecheeked Bee-Eater

Burchell’s Coucal

Blackshouldered Kite

Steppe Buzzard

Southern Pied Babbler

European Marsh Warbler

 

Patience is what comes to mind when I think of Nylsvley Nature Reserve, an ephemeral floodplain between Modimolle (Nylstroom) and Mookgophong (Naboomspruit) in the Waterberg region of Limpopo province.

Although Nylsvley is the largest floodplain in South Africa, covering up to 16 000 ha when fully inundated, the cycle of flooding is erratic, dynamic and unpredictable. It is probably only totally flooded once a decade, while every third year or so, below-average rain in the catchment area on the eastern slopes of the Waterberg Mountains causes the floodplain to remain bone-dry.

This was my third visit to Nylsvley and finally a good year in terms of flooding, my arrival in mid-March obviously helping.

Nylsvley is famous for its waterbirds, many of which – your bitterns, crakes, rails and warblers – are skulking at the best of times, so a lot of patience is required to spot these shy species.

And then you have the tropical specials, which are not only skulking, but also few and far between on the ground. One of these is the Lesser Gallinule, a summer visitor to isolated parts of northern South Africa and a bird I have been wanting to see for many years.

Vogelfontein, on the northern edge of the reserve, is the most famous part of Nylsvley – more than a hundred waterbird species have been recorded in this area of flooded rank grassland, with hides, a road and raised dykes for better viewing, making it South Africa’s richest wetland.

But staying overnight at Nylsvley enabled me to visit the centre of the reserve for the first time and, in particular, the Jacana Hide, which is upstream from Vogelfontein. A walkway takes you through flooded reedbeds, before the vista opens up at the hide, giving you a view down the channels of the Mogkalakwena River.

Heading to the hide from the parking lot, the portents were good as I was privileged to not only see a handful of African Clawless Otter but also to see them indulge in the sort of natural behaviour that usually comes with a David Attenborough voice-over.

 

Before the metal walkway through the reeds starts, there is a grassy track and there, out in the open on this path, were these otters waggling their hindparts in some sort of dance. It was all a bit reminiscent of Miley Cyrus with sniffing of rear ends going on too as they whirled around each other, the slick, sleek black bodies of the otters merging together.

After nearly a minute they disappeared back into the water and reeds on either side of the track, but there was a strong urine-like smell at the spot where they performed, so I presume they were indulging in the ritualised latrine dance described by Somers in 1997.

Upon arriving at the Jacana Hide, thrilled by the mesmerising otters, I discovered two other people there, photographers, and they mentioned that they had seen Lesser Gallinule there the previous day.

Convinced that this must be my lucky day, I hunkered down for a long stay, eager to catch a sighting of a bird notorious for only making brief emergences from the thick, rank vegetation it favours.

Not that I was bored. There was a steady flow of traffic and I decided to rename Jacana Hide the Squacco Heron Airport as these birds that are normally easily overlooked were continually coming and going overhead, like aeroplanes approaching or taking off.

There were also Purple Heron, Levaillant’s Cisticola, Little Bee-Eater, African Fish Eagle, Malachite Kingfisher, African Reed Warbler, Whitefaced Duck, Pied Kingfisher, Cape Reed Warbler and Spurwinged Goose around. Even a Bearded Woodpecker paid a visit to the trees surrounding the main pool.

And then, with the sun getting low behind the thorn trees, the plump purple body of a Gallinule emerged on to a sandbank in front of the hide.

Great excitement.

But hold on, the bigger Purple Gallinule is common at Nylsvley and, if you’re not entirely sure of the size difference, one needs to look at the frontal shield – a hard piece of skin extending from the base of the upper bill over the forehead.

Both the Purple and Lesser Gallinule have bright red bills, but the Purple has a red frontal shield as well, while the scarcer Lesser has a bright blue to apple-green frontal shield.

I find size differences to be rather a subjective issue and I prefer to use more definite identification points, so I was focusing in on this Gallinule’s head, hoping to see a different colour than red above the beak.

Sadly, it was clearly red and my bird was the common Purple Gallinule.

Oh well, keep waiting.

The light was starting to get poor as the sun dipped ever lower and I was starting to give myself five minutes more … at five-minute intervals.

Eventually, another Gallinule emerged on to the sandbank. Was it the same one? Hang on, there seems to be something different about this one … it’s smaller.

With excitement growing, up went the binoculars for a detailed examination, honing in on the frontal shield. Which was hard work because of the poor light and the bird’s annoying habit of foraging whilst facing away from the hide!

Eventually, with frustration starting to overtake excitement, the Gallinule went for a stroll along the sandbank and turned to face the hide!

And there it was … a blue frontal shield!

My first Lesser Gallinule and it eventually gave me a wonderful sighting, fit for a lifer, as it paraded along the sandbank as a reward for my patience.

With the sun setting, it was time to return to camp after an exhilarating afternoon, completed by a couple of Southern Pochard flying in and then a friendly Common Large-Spotted Genet visiting my braai that evening.

Vogelfontein is also a highly-rewarding spot, especially when it is flooded.

I knew conditions were good when I spotted a Little Bittern clambering along the barbed wire fence alongside the road, using it as a hunting perch with water below right up to the road.

There were conspicuous Black Crake next to the road as well and Hottentot Teal, Wood Sandpiper and Threebanded Plover in the pools that had formed in the grassland. Whitewinged Widows were zitting around energetically.

My first stop was Kingfisher Hide and, as I alighted from the car, I happened to look skywards to enjoy a beautiful sunny day. There up above, soaring, dipping and diving about were a number of Blackwinged Pratincole, another lifer!

They were wonderful to watch, gliding around in a clear blue sky, flashing their forked, white tails and bellies. Some Amur Falcons were sharing the heavens with them.

Walking along the raised dykes on the other side of the road, numerous good sightings were made, including Blackcrowned Night Heron, Great White Egret, Burchell’s Coucal, Black Egret, both Grey and Blackheaded herons, Squacco Heron, Woodland Kingfisher, African Jacana, European Bee-Eater and Willow Warbler.

Away from the wetlands, the woodlands around Nylsvley – both broad-leaved and Acacia – are excellent for birding.

A Black Cuckooshrike was right next to the campsite, in a bird party with Chinspot Batis, Paradise Flycatcher and Diederick Cuckoo.

Some Bluecheeked Bee-Eaters were patrolling the dirt road to the entrance gate, along with Burchell’s Starling and Flappet Lark.

One has to exit the Nature Reserve and drive along the railway line to get to Vogelfontein, but there is good Acacia birding along this drive, with Purple Roller, Brownheaded Kingfisher, Spotted Flycatcher, Southern Black Tit and Whitebrowed Sparrow Weaver present.

Sightings list

Crested Francolin

Neddicky

Redeyed Dove

Black Cuckooshrike

Laughing Dove

Swainson’s Francolin

Glossy Starling

Chinspot Batis

Paradise Flycatcher

Forktailed Drongo

Grey Hornbill

Diederick Cuckoo

Burchell’s Starling

Cattle Egret

Redbacked Shrike

Speckled Mousebird

Bluecheeked Bee-Eater

European Swallow

Cape Turtle Dove

Purple Roller

Brownhooded Kingfisher

Helmeted Guineafowl

Crowned Plover

Southern Grey headed Sparrow

Spotted Flycatcher

Grey Lourie

Little Bittern

Stonechat

Common Waxbill

Black Crake

Blacksmith Plover

Southern Masked Weaver

Whitethroated Swallow

Hottentot Teal

Wood Sandpiper

Threebanded Plover

Greater Striped Swallow

Whitewinged Widow

Blackwinged Pratincole

Amur Falcon

Blackcrowned Night Heron

Great White Egret

Burchell’s Coucal

Black Egret

Grey Heron

Blackheaded Heron

Squacco Heron

Tawnyflanked Prinia

Reed Cormorant

Longtailed Shrike

Plains Zebra

Woodland Kingfisher

African Jacana

European Bee-Eater

Willow Warbler

Rattling Cisticola

Orangethroated Longclaw

Common Moorhen

Southern Black Tit

Redwinged Starling

Whitebrowed Sparrow Weaver

Cape Dwarf Gecko

Blackeyed Bulbul

Yellowbilled Hornbill

Tsessebe

Flappet Lark

Purple Heron

African Clawless Otter

Levaillant’s Cisticola

Little Bee-Eater

African Fish Eagle

Malachite Kingfisher

African Reed Warbler

Bearded Woodpecker

Whitefaced Duck

Pied Kingfisher

Cape Reed Warbler

Spurwinged Goose

Purple Gallinule

Lesser Gallinule

Southern Pochard

Hadeda Ibis

Common Large-Spotted Genet

Kurrichane Thrush

Tree Squirrel

Longbilled Crombec

Cardinal Woodpecker

Southern Tree Agama

 

The best feature of Vaalkop Dam Nature Reserve, 50km north-west of Brits, is the overwhelming sense of peace and natural tranquility you get sitting on the shore of the large dam.

On a steamy hot February morning, it was beautiful just to sit and soak in the clear blue skies, the odd koppie and the sounds of the waterbirds going about their business. I even used the opportunity to indulge in one of my favourite treats – dipping my cap into the cool water and then throwing it over my head … Bliss!

I judged the spot where I tiptoed into the water to be crocodile-free because moments earlier a large carp had come to that spot and briefly frolicked in the shallow water …

February 16 was a very hot day, but nevertheless it was a good birding trip.

I stopped at the little bridge across the Elands River and made a great start – a couple of Blackcrowned Night Herons roosting in the overhanging riverine trees.

It was a good spot, also throwing up African Darter, a fleeing Greenbacked Heron with its orange legs dangling conspicuously, Reed Cormorant, a fleeting glimpse of a Woodland Kingfisher, Cape Wagtail, a large flock of Greater Striped Swallows, Southern Red Bishop, Whitewinged Widow, Southern Masked Weaver and Pied Kingfisher. I also heard some rustling down below the bridge and shortly afterwards a large Nile Monitor came shuffling out with a plastic bag and some vegetable/reedy matter clamped tight in its jaws.

The people at Bushwillow kindly allowed me into their bird sanctuary and highlights there were Scalyfeathered Finch, my first European Roller of the summer (leaving it late!), Jameson’s Firefinch, an Ostrich, a nicely posing Lesser Grey Shrike and Goliath Heron.

I then took a little walk down to the dam and spotted a dashing Bluecheeked Bee-Eater, swooping around like a green bullet, as well as a Whiskered Tern that was meandering across the dam before suddenly changing direction and swooping back into the water to catch something small. A couple of dainty Black Heron were also amongst the waterbirds.

A lovely shaded little pool threw up a brilliant Malachite Kingfisher that posed all-too-briefly on a reedstem for me before vanishing in a blur of dazzling colours.

I stopped for lunch at the picnic site and spotted my second ever Great Sparrow (the first was in November at Mapungubwe), hopping about in an Acacia tree along with a Crested Barbet.

The signs warning anglers about the crocodiles are true because I spotted a two-metre reptile cruising in towards the shoreline before my attention was grabbed by a pair of fairly distant African Fish Eagle.

A very yellow Cape White-Eye also popped in to visit and, just before leaving Vaalkop, I spotted an Icterine Warbler in the thicker Acacia woodland in the southern part of the reserve.

By far the most common bird of the trip was the Spotted Flycatcher … there seemed to be one lurking under a tree ever 50 metres or so! As someone who’s birding foundation was in KZN, I’m used to Blackeyed Bulbuls dominating … in fact I didn’t see a single Toppie!

But another wonderful piece of African heaven discovered not that far from home and definite food for the soul …

Sightings list

Blackcrowned Night Heron

African Darter

Greenbacked Heron

Reed Cormorant

Woodland Kingfisher

Cape Wagtail

Greater Striped Swallow

Nile Monitor

Southern Red Bishop

Whitewinged Widow

Southern Masked Weaver

Pied Kingfisher

Laughing Dove

Little Egret

Grey Hornbill

Grey Lourie

Impala

Glossy Starling

European Bee-Eater

Scalyfeathered Finch

Redbilled Quelea

Southern Greyheaded Sparrow

Lilacbreasted Roller

Pied Crow

Kudu

European Swallow

Rufousnaped Lark

Cape Turtle Dove

European Roller

Fantailed Cisticola

Nyala (females)

Jameson’s Firefinch (female)

Spotted Flycatcher

Ostrich

Whitebreasted Cormorant

Lesser Grey Shrike

Grey Heron

Goliath Heron

Blacksmith Plover

Egyptian Goose

Bluecheeked Bee-Eater

Cattle Egret

Whiskered Tern (non-breeding)

Black Heron

Sabota Lark

Malachite Kingfisher

Longtailed Shrike

Vervet Monkey

Crested Barbet

Great Sparrow (male)

Common Myna (grrrrr)

Nile Crocodile

Redknobbed Coot

African Fish Eagle

Cape White-Eye

Sacred Ibis

Rattling Cisticola

Red Hartebeest

Bushbuck

Waterbuck (pregnant young cow)

Forktailed Drongo

Southern Black Tit (female)

Redbacked Shrike (male)

Icterine Warbler

The Zaagkuildrift to Kgomo-Kgomo road has such an evocative name – in fact, when I told one of my friends where I had been, he said I had made up the names!

But it was no fantasy, that partly cloudy, hot and humid day of January 26, with the route along the Pienaars River having a wonderfully tropical feel and the road still muddy and interrupted with deep puddles after recent heavy rain.

Having to negotiate the morning rush hour traffic of both Johannesburg and Pretoria meant I only started birding at 8.55am.

I began my adventure by mistakenly heading towards the railway station, but the detour did throw up Blackthroated Canary, Blackchested Prinia, Diederick Cuckoo, one of my favourite summer birds in the Woodland Kingfisher, and the first Steelblue Widowfinch I have seen in a long time. I also got Rattling Cisticola out of the way early on!

I had barely travelled two kilometres down the right road when my petrol light started showing about a hundred kilometres early, so it was back to Pienaarsrivier town for a refill and peace of mind.

On the third attempt I made it past the MCPA Dam and its hippo warnings and into the riverine bush. Highlights were House Martin, a Steppe Buzzard which insisted on returning to the telephone pole two ahead of the car before flying off again, the beautiful Melba Finch, Whitebrowed Sparrow-Weaver, good sighting of a Gabar Goshawk and Amur Falcon, Burchell’s and Wattled Starlings.

Apart from the excellent birding, the frustrated rally driver in me was having great fun taking on the mud and pools of water! But it seemed the fun would have to end when, perhaps a third of the way along the 26km route, I came to a gully where the road is closest to the Pienaars River.

A lengthy patch of mushy mud lay in front of a deep, wide pool of water and I decided I would not be able to generate enough speed through the mud to be sure of getting through the pond on the other side of it. So it was with a heavy heart that I turned back, before deciding to try and find a detour that would take me to the other side of the obstruction.

I headed back to the R101 and then turned off towards Syferkraal, from where I managed to find a road south to Walman and Tlovnane – the D1660 – that would hopefully join up again with the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road.

As much as I was revelling in God’s beautiful creation, it was also a reminder of a great spiritual truth: Often we are so set on the path that we want to go, and we get most upset if that way is blocked, but God has something much better in store. So it proved as the road from Syferkraal back to the Pienaars River produced some exceptional birding, including a LIFER!

The detour had already paid dividends as, on my way back past the MCPA Dam, I had spotted just my second ever Bluecheeked Bee-Eater.

Just outside of Syferkraal, I had stopped on the side of the road as there was plenty of activity in the Acacia woodland – Longtailed Paradise Whydah was showing off beautifully and there was also Marico Flycatcher and Chestnutvented Tit Babbler. But I had caught a glimpse of something else Whydah-like …

My first ever Shaft-tailed Whydah! A male in all his finery, like our very own bird of paradise, perching on the telephone line and showing off his wonderful tail.

My happiness only increased when I managed to get back on to the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road and just past Wolfhuiskraal Farm, I allowed my enthusiasm to get the better of me …

A shallow looking puddle lay across the road and I roared through it … unfortunately it was deeper than I expected and I was going a bit too fast, so as I exited the pond, the car cut out. I had managed to get water in the engine!

After 15 minutes of waiting, the car refusing to re-start, a gentleman in his bakkie arrived. I was practically out of the water and there was enough room on the right of me for him to get past, and I was hoping he could then use my tow-rope, give me a pull (not a tug) and I’d get started again.

Unfortunately he was not the adventurous sort and was afraid that he would get stuck in the mud! So he waited behind me with his lady friend …

Eventually, about half-an-hour later, two gents in a Landrover came along and, after some initial problems attaching the tow rope, I was back on the go again.

Unfortunately, it was shortlived because about two kilometres further down the road, there was another muddy stretch and deep puddle and I decided not to chance my arm because I’d already had enough excitement for one day!

So homewards I trekked, again via Syferkraal, and I managed to pick up a lovely group of Southern Pied Babbler (black & white can be so beautiful!), Kalahari Robin, Bluebilled & Redbilled Firefinch and, to end on a high note, a stunning Crimsonbreasted Shrike!

Even though my trip was disrupted, I had seen enough to know the Zaagkuildrift-KgomoKgomo road is a place of mystical wonder. Next time I think I’ll start on the Kgomo-Kgomo side ….

Sightings list

Blackthroated Canary

Blackchested Prinia

Laughing Dove

Diederick Cuckoo

Woodland Kingfisher

Rattling Cisticola

Steelblue Widowfinch

Redbacked Shrike

European Swallow

House Martin

Whitethroated Swallow

Rufousnaped Lark

Redwinged Starling

Whitewinged Widow

Cape Turtle Dove

Cinnamonbreasted Rock Bunting

Steppe Buzzard

Helmeted Guineafowl

Spurwinged Goose

Blue Waxbill

Melba Finch

Southern Greyheaded Sparrow

Whitebrowed Sparrow-Weaver

Yellowfronted Canary

Gabar Goshawk

Amur Falcon

Forktailed Drongo

Longtailed Shrike

Spottedbacked Weaver

Glossy Starling

Redfaced Mousebird

Burchell’s Starling

Wattled Starling

African Jacana

Bluecheeked Bee-Eater

Cattle Egret

Crested Francolin

Little Swift

Crowned Plover

Longtailed Paradise Whydah

Shaft-Tailed Whydah

Marico Flycatcher

Chestnutvented Tit Babbler

Fantailed Cisticola

Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill

Spotted Flycatcher

European Bee-Eater

Southern Pied Babbler

Kalahari Robin

Bluebilled Firefinch

Natal Francolin

Redbilled Firefinch

Redbilled Woodhoopoe

Crimsonbreasted Shrike